Swapping a Shimano Mavic Aksium freehub wheel to Campagnolo


The next repair will show how to upgrade a Mavic rear wheel that do NOT use QRM+/QRM SL technologies, just the standard QRM hub, to a different Shimano or Campagnolo freehub type. It’s also helpful if you just want to service the hub to clean&refresh with oil the pawls, replace bearings and so on.

Road wheels cassette-freehub interfaces are not universal. If a rider changes his mind and decide to switch from Shimano/SRAM to Campy and vice versa on his equipment, he will have to decide what to do with the wheels. Get a new whole wheel or replacing the freehub are the options.

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Mavic freehubs are a ripoff. An Aksium wheelset is around £150, £90 for just the rear and… £40 for the freehub! Campagnolo left, Shimano right

Mavic entry level wheels do not implement the famous QRM+ micro adjustment features, just the standard QRM design. As a result, the hub construction is totally different affecting how to precisely tweak the bearings or remove the freehub body, for example.

Mosaico tecnologias QRM estándar y QRM+

Top: QRM standard hub assembly with just a large hollow axle type. Bottom: QRM+ hub diagram that implements and axle end and a screw type axle

If you type on YouTube Mavic freehub removal or Mavic freehub service you will come across with some videos about how to dismantle it. But nobody has considered to do it with the cheapest version of the FTS-L hub, or at least I have not seen it.

In this year 2013, Mavic offers three road models (Aksium S, Cosmic Elite, Ksyrium Equipe) and one off road (Crossride models for 9mm axles) with the cheap hub and axle version.

Mosaico bujes sin tecnología QRM+

Aksium S, Ksyrium Equipe, Cosmic Elite and Crossride QRM standard wheel freehub

The procedure to take apart the freehub is similar in all of these wheels. Even if they belong to different seasons. Mine is the Aksium Race model sold during 2010-2012.

We can recognise a QRM standard hub wheel if there are not small holes to fit the Mavic specific hub tool in the left flange of it. Otherwise you can spot a 17mm hex nut on the right axle end. On QRM+ this nut is circular.

Mavic SL

Mavic R-Sys rear wheel

We need a stiff/long 5mm hex wrench and one 17mm hex combination wrench for the freehub body removal.

Park Tool 5mm P-handled hex wrench and 17mm socket type tool. It appears 15mm engraved but in the other side is also a 17mm one

Park Tool 5mm P-handled hex wrench and 17mm socket type tool. It appears 15mm engraved but in the other side is also a 17mm one

Fit the 5mm key inside the axle. Grab it with your left hand and keep stationary the axle. Turn only counterclockwise the red tool. Make sure you fit the wrench straight not to damage the nut. If you use an open end spanner it is likely to happen that the tool will slip under preassure. My advice is to get a combination wrench where you can hold the nut in all of their 6 sides with the box end of it.

Removal 1

Undo with your fingers the nut once is loose and keep it in a safe place. A magnetic parts tray is perfect for wheel repairs.

Shimano M10 freehub units need a specific spacer to fit 8/9/10 cogsets compatible with Shimano or SRAM systems. Remove it to have better grip while you are lifting with your fingers the base of the hub body. Do it slowly. If you are lucky none of the two pawls will pop out.

Removal 2

The last picture tells that one off them did not stay in place. Nothing mayor as you will have to double-check them after swapping over the bodies

By the way, the removal and installation process of the Campagnolo ED10/ED11 freehub is identical to the Shimano M10 version.

After taking off the freehub body clean the inside and the pawls. You can use light mineral oil. If you are desperate lube it with chain oil but remember to clean it regularly.

027

. In my case everything was spotted on as the wheel has only spinned for 500km

Notice about the existence of the washer in the next mosaic. It is in between two bearings, the one inside the freehub in the axle end and the one in the hub shell that appears in the picture. I reckon it has the right dimensions to fit the width of the bearing units. We need it to remove any undesirable play.

Fit both pawls securely. At this point, choose the freehub wanted.

Installation 1

Never install the new freehub without the washer. It must be fitted like in pics 2 and 3

Compress both pawls with you left hand so that you can slide in the freehub body with the other one till the end. Then thread the nut back.

Installation 2

Use the same tools to secure the hex nut properly to10Nm by fixing the blue one in place and turning the red one clockwise

After all we have the wheel in working order. This repair should take around 5 minutes. The time necessary to grab the tools.

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Mavic Aksium Race 2012 with Campagnolo ED10 freewheel

The new wheels in the 2013 range feature a new axle size and thus a different freewheel bearing dimension. On these wheels, freewheel bearing has an inside diameter of 9 mm (instead of 8 mm on earlier models) and the freewheel bearing protection cap is silver (instead of black on earlier models).

The old freehubs M10 M40592 and ED10/ED11 M40591, with bearing diameter of 8 mm and a black bearing protection seal are not compatible with the 2013 range.

The new models HG11 30871101 and ED11 30871301 feature both Shimano and Campy 11 speed cassette systems. A shouldered washer is included in the freewheel kits to ensure the compatibility of these freehub bodies with wheels marketed prior to 2013.

2013 wheel range 9mm bearings

Discard the old washer and fit the new one provided in any type of hub (QRM, QRM+, QRM SL)

It must be used instead of the flat spacer M40066 to install these new freewheels on the old wheels, whose axle (QRM standard hub) or axle end screw (QRM+ or QRMSL hubs) have a diameter of 8 mm.

15 responses to “Swapping a Shimano Mavic Aksium freehub wheel to Campagnolo

  1. Hi, do you know if it is possible to do this in reverse ( swap a campag freehub to a shimano freehub ) on a 2013 Cosmic SLE ?
    Thank you.

  2. Seriously? It would be the first time I come across with this issue on a Mavic wheel. Just replace it for the same HG11 30871101 Shimano freehub.

    The only info I found is this: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/mavic-freehub-locking-jamming-after-5-10-minutes-riding-313604.html

  3. Hi.
    Great article. Is it possible to fit a Campag body from Aksium 2013 wheels onto Ksyrium 2012 and before?

  4. It is possible depending on the Ksyrium model. It would work for the Equipe version but not in the Elite or SL ones that come with QRM+/QRM SL axles.

  5. Ok thanks, forgot to mention they are Elites. But 2013 models of Aksium and Ksyrium Elite could interchange Campag and Shimano freehubs?

  6. I’ve google a little. In theory they can be swapped.

  7. Hi, I’m trying to take apart Mavic Crossride 2012 rear hub for a maintenance and I probably damage the 5mm hex. Any idea how can I dissemble the hub in different way ?
    Thanks

  8. many thanks! you saved my day. just serviced my aksium rear from 2007, no issues at all! by the way the bearings were in perfect shape, looked at them and saw the are from SKF!

  9. Hello, I had the same experience as yourself. Couldn’t find a decent explanation on how to remove my freehub. My hub looks very similar to the one you described. Maybe the same, as I have the Aksium Race as well, from around 2010.
    One major problem though. After removing the nut on the drive side, there is no way to get the freehub off. It just doesn’t budge. And it’s not like it’s wedged in or something, it just won’t move. I tried rocking it back and forth a bit, applying some pressure, all to no avail. As if it is still held back by something. From what I can see, there’s still a black disc with forged-in nut sitting on top of the freehub, but it’s no different from the one shown in the pictures you posted.
    Any ideas on what might be causing this?

    • After removing the mentioned nut you should be able to pull off the freehub by just grabbing it firmly with your fist and apply some preassure back and forth.

      My method in extremely tight frehubs is as follow:

      – Use a steel lockring from an old cassette and thread it onto the freehub with no cassette installed.

      – Use a bling bearing puller (like the enduro one) attached inside the lockring (in the correct size) and extract the freehub by pulling with a violent and fast movement.

      Instead of extracting a bearing you must remove the freehub using the lockring as the attaching tool.

      • Hello, thanks for getting back. But I’ll believe I’ll throw in the towel. Tried to get it off again, and it won’t budge at all. No idea what’s holding it back, maybe the bearings which are stuck to the hub. But the way I see it, it’s not causing me issues right now, and the freewheel is working correctly. So I believe I will do more damage by trying to force it off, than by just leaving it where it is.

  10. Hi there – I have a set of 2012 Cosmic Carbone (campagnolo). I believe the axle size is 9 mm since I once bought a used Shimano freehub body and it wouldn’t fit which led me to believe it was an older, 8mm one. My question is: if I were to purchase a new set of Mavic wheels (newer than 2013) would I be able to put that freehub on the Carbone? I ask because looking online even the newer models (looking at Aksium and Cosmic Elite) don’t seem to have the silver end cap, rather they have the black one, which I thought meant they are 8mm axles… Any help would be much appreciated!

  11. I have an aksium rear wheel with a campagnolo hub but want to fit a shimano free hub as I’m running a 105 groupset, can I just buy a shimano free hub and fit it without problems or is there more to it?

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